Just down the steps from our sea view suite at Le Sirenuse, Chez Black is the quintessential Positano restaurant and in fact, the first. Sitting right up against the sand and open until midnight every night, it’s become my go-to for a classic beachside cocktail like an Aperol Spritz, or a fresh seafood pasta with a glass of Vermentino—plus a sailboat-studded view and a crowd of relaxed, lively and beautiful people.

Opened in 1949, when Positano was still a fisherman town, this local institution has a one-of-a-kind nautical charm and flair. Celebrities and jet setters have flocked here for the yummy food and the gorgeous scenery since the 1950s—Sophia Loren, Madonna, Gregory Peck and Denzel Washington are just a few known regulars.

Over decades of serving a discerning international crowd, to this day the restaurant is above all a celebration of the sea. The dining room, opening onto the beachfront terrace, is built to feel like a vintage yacht, complete with mermaid columns, dolphin sconces and servers in sailor uniforms.

On the menu you’ll find a treasure trove of freshly-caught dishes, like the famous sea urchin spaghetti, served in a giant show-stopping shell; or the local fish soup made with octopus, mussels, red fish and more. And it’s not just the seafood that’s fresh—everything from the tomatoes to the olive oil to the lemons in the Delizie al Limone (a lemon cream dessert) are locally sourced and allowed to shine with simple Italian preparations.

You’ll still find a dinner crowd wining and dining here until midnight, as summer living in Amalfi tends to lean late. After that, the party moves upstairs to Chez Black’s popular grotto bar, a 1950s-inspired lounge carved into the cliffside and featuring a breezy open terrace. Even mid-week and off-season, you’ll find a fabulous scene buzzing here, with DJs drawing a bigger crowd on special occasion.



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